petit paris

Musical Concert for Kids in Paris at Salle Gaveau

2012-01-31T14:19:00.003+01:00

Greetings from Unhealthy House. For the past ten days my life has been dealing with high fevers, runny noses, nasty racking coughs, listless children, and a weird, highly contagious, hideous skin infection on my little one (impetigo), which I assume was thrown in to mix things up in case I was bored with their ordinary cold symptoms.

I don’t dare say that I see a light at the end of the tunnel, but let’s just say that I’m looking ahead.

I know I’m not alone in this plague on my house; seems like every kid (and parent) in Paris is sick right about now. But if you and your kids have been lucky enough to emerge from January with your health intact, I’ve got an interesting activity for you for this weekend:

Les Marmots à Gaveau

For the first time ever, the Salle Gaveau is hosting a series of 7 original shows/music workshops for children age 4 and up. Each installment of the series features a different instrument, which is used to illustrate fantastical stories.

This Sunday, February 5^th, the musician Morgane and her clarinet will take children on a journey to the countryside, where they’ll meet a greedy calf, a love-struck rooster, a mischievous mouse and other animals, each of which is represented by an instrument (à la Peter and the Wolf). After the show, there’s a musical workshop, which I presume will teach children about the clarinet (the website isn’t too clear about that).

The show lasts about 50-60 minutes, while the workshop is another hour – but you don’t have to attend both.

It sounds like lots of fun and if we weren’t away this weekend, I’d take my little patients. But there's one show every month through June, so we'll try to make one of the others. I’m already looking ahead to the show that’ll be held on June 10^th, which will tell the story of a little boy who was born in a piano (his parents were musical notes). Doesn’t that sound so sweet?

If you attend Les Marmots à Gaveau this weekend, please leave a comment on this blog and let us know how your children (and you) enjoyed the show!

Bonne santé a tous!

****

Practical Information:

Address : Salle Gaveau, 45 rue de la Boetie, 75008 Paris

Metro : Miromesnil (lines 9 and 13)

Hours : 3pm (show) ; 4pm (workshop)

Cost: Show: 12 (children), 17 (adults); Workshop: 20 (per person).

Celebrate Chinese New Year in Paris with Kids!

2012-01-23T11:11:00.004+01:00

Gung Hay Fat Choy!

Today marks the first day of the Chinese New Year, Year of the Water Dragon.

Even though I know Paris has a large Chinese community that celebrates the New Year in a big way, I never saw any of the festivities until last year. What fun! Dancing, swirling golden dragons, enormous drums and brass gongs, firecrackers, red lanterns swinging in the trees. The kids were riveted, though perhaps slightly intimidated by all the excitement and noise. But after it was over they clamored for more. I think we’ve watched a video I took of a truly impressive drummer about 794 times. (I’m probably underestimating.)

There are going to be multiple celebrations in Paris throughout the week. The biggest celebrations ones are centered in the 3^rd and 13^th arrondissements, which are hosting parades on Saturday, January 28^th and Sunday, January 29^th, respectively. But there's even more going on that that! Concerts, origami lessons, make-up workshops, dances, film showings and more. For details on happenings in the 3rd district, click here, and for details on happenings in the 13th district, click here. There, you'll find all the appropriate starting times and parade routes.

I’m not sure if we’ll make it to these big parades this year, but we’ll definitely be heading to watch the dragon dance in front of the mairie in the 11th arrondissement this Wednesday, January 25 at 17h.

If you’re in the neighborhood, come check it out!

Cupcakes in Paris/Whom Can I Run to….

2012-01-20T14:19:00.005+01:00

…..Cat Bernier of Sugar Daze fame, that’s who. Cat, an American mom in Paris known city-wide for her gorgeous, scrumpdiddlicious cupcakes, is hosting a contest in which she’s giving away a gift box of six St. Valentine’s Day-theme cupcakes to two lucky people.

To get your chance at winning cupcakes like the one featured above, just go to the Sugar Daze Facebook page, tell her your favorite Valentine's Day themed cupcake (choices listed below), and you're automatically entered!

Here are the details:

*****

The Sugar Daze Valentine gift box is back -- and it's bigger and better than ever! (Tempt your chances and win a gift box. Leave me a comment below telling me which cupcake in the assortment you can't wait to sink your teeth into! 2 winners will be chosen at random on Sunday, 12 February)

The 6 cupcake box (24 euros) includes:

- La Vie en Rose ( a pistachio cupcake with rose buttercream)

- Kiss Kiss Bang Bang (the classic Red Velvet with vanilla bean frosting)

- Lovefool (strawberry and champagne cupcake and buttercream)

- Go All the Way (raspberry swirled cupcake with chocolate buttecream)

- Vanilla Lovers (the name says it all!)

- Mademoiselle Orangette (an orange cupcake with chocolate ganache frosting)

As always, your cupcakes will be dressed in assorted hand-made decorations for Valentine's Day! Available for pick-up only, in the 17th (Courcelles/Wagram) on the 13th or 14th Februray at the following times:

Monday, 13 februray : 13H30 - 16H or 17H-19H

Tuesday, 14 february: 13H30 - 16H or 18H - 20H

I can only make 50 gift boxes this year so hurry up and reserve yours - orders will be taken on a first come first serve basis!

To pre-order, please send an email to:

info@sugardazecupcakes.com noting the number of boxes you would like to order AND the date/time desired for your pick-up.

Thank you!

*****

For readers outside of Paris: I’m sorry…these goodies can’t be delivered. But visit the Sugar Daze website anyway. When you visit Paris, you can promise your kids if they promise to keep from whining during your tour of the Louvre, you’ll order them some of these amazing treats!

Paris Playground Review: The Jardin de Luxembourg

2012-01-15T07:25:00.016+01:00

Happy New Year, everyone! I’m a little late with the new year’s wishes as we took the first week of January off to ski in Switzerland, which was fabulous. I’m suffering now from PPD (post-party depression), missing the crisp mountain air, and the tranquil sight of snow-covered pines.

But I should cheer up because Paris isn’t too bad at the moment. Although it’s cold, the sun is shining and the skies are clear, which for long-time Paris dwellers is nothing short of astonishing. I’m usually fretting about what indoor activities I can do with the kids at this time of year. These days, we’ve been hitting the playground, no problem.

Normally we go to the playground at the Jardin de Tuileries (home of the Wicked Slide), but on weekends the kids clamor to go a little further away to the playground at Jardin de Luxembourg.

I can’t say I blame them. This playground always makes me feel a little worm of jealousy. I mean , hey – sometimes I want to go on a zip line...

or climb on a jungle gym...

or drive a truck...

or exhaust myself on a slide, too!

The playground at the Jardin de Luxembourg is so awesome that they actually charge entry: 2.60 euros for kids over 18 months, 1.60 euros for adults.

Here’s what I like best about the playground:

1. There's plenty to do for kids of all ages. Unlike certain other playgrounds in Paris, the Jardin du Luxembourg playground offers a satisfying range of age-appropriate opportunities for fun. The play structures for the smaller children are near the entrance of the playground; structures for the older kids toward the back. I love this clear separation because it helps me keep my 2-year old off the structures that are much too advanced for him. Not that he cares.

2. Interesting structures. A rope climbing structure resembling the Eiffel Tower. A massive sandpit featuring a large wooden platform where you can hoist and lower sand in a bucket with a pulley. An intricate system of climbing structures and slides. And the zip line, of course. So much fun. I’m jealous. Really.

3. There’s only one exit. Love this. Wish it were a feature of all playgrounds.

4. It’s next to one of the oldest and coolest carousels in Paris. Just outside of the playground is a creaking wooden carousel from the 19^th century. No new-fangled plastic flashiness here, the animals are carved from wood and their battered haunches and faded paint jobs are a testament to their age. This carousel is proof that kids don’t always need new and shiny to be entertained – when the playground closes, they mob the carousel. Why? Because this is a traditional “brass ring” carousel. Each child receives a small baton upon climbing upon their favorite animal. As the merry-go-round circles, they try to loop the baton through a ring held by the carousel operator.

In other words, they’re “reaching for the brass ring."

Pretty cool, huh?

Overall grade: A. What can I say? It's a great playground.

Practical Info:

Address: Jardin du Luxembourg, 6th arrondissement.

Transportation: Metro: Mabillon (line 10), Odeon (line 4) Bus 21, 27, 38,58, 63 85; RER: line B (Luxembourg)

Hours: 10am- 7pm (summer); 10am - 1/2 hour before sunset (winter).

Christmas in Paris with Kids 2011

2011-12-19T23:16:00.004+01:00

Beautiful cathedral, beautiful tree

Happy holidays everyone!

I’m so happy that we get to celebrate Christmas in Paris this year. As an international family, we rotate the country in which we celebrate Christmas every year so that we can spend the holidays with our respective families. But every third year, we spend Christmas in Paris. I love this. It means I don't have to lug gifts all over the place, worrying about whether they’ll fit into our luggage or be stolen.

Oh, and of course, it also means that we can take advantage of all those cool kid-friendly things there are to do in Paris. And believe me, there's lots to do. Here’s 9 things to do with kids in Paris this year:

1. Ride the Christmas Train at Gare de l’Est. Starting on Thursday, December 22nd through December 26th, you can take the kids on a fantastic trip to the North Pole to visit Santa courtesy of the “Train de Noel” at the Gare de l’Est. According to the website, kids pick up a magical (and free) “boarding pass” to enter this wonderland, which hosts all kinds of 3D special effects, ice exhibitions, sledding and more. Now, how all this happens in a train station, I’d like to know. And does the train actually go anywhere? I don't know for the moment. But I will know come Thursday, because I’m taking the kids. Click here for more details.

2. Take a Ride on a Carousel. For the holiday season, the city of Paris erects a carousel in each arrondissement. If that isn’t enough, all rides are free! Look here for a listing of where to find each carousel. The carousels will be around from December 17th through January 1, from 10am – 7pm. Unless you’re going early in the morning, be prepared for long lines.

3. Visit the Amusement Park at Place de la Bastille. Another fun Parisian Christmas tradition is “Le Monde des Enfant,” a small amusement park that is erected at Place de la Bastille. Oh, it’s got everything that kids love: a bouncy castle, trampolines, bumper cars, giant slides, the works. It’s not particularly Christmassy, but it’s fun. It’s running now through January 8, 2012.

4. Visit the Christmas Market on the Champs-Elysees. Paris hosts several Christmas markets every holiday season, but the granddaddy of them all is on the Champs-Elysees where hundreds of white huts line the avenue, offering up all kinds of goodies from hand-painted Christmas ornaments and Alsatian sausages to cotton candy and vin chaud (mulled wine). For the kids, there’s lots of fun activities, including a small ice-skating rink, a track with small motorbikes, and a display of both mechanical and real animals. (All of these can be found on the southern side of the avenue –e.g., the side closest to the Seine.) After 6pm, there’s also a little show every 30 minutes where a “real” Santa rides in a sleigh with not-real reindeer on a zip line above the market, to the delight of little ones below.

5. Go on the Ferris Wheel. After the visiting the Christmas market at the Champs, why not take the kiddos on the huge Ferris wheel that is specially constructed every holiday season at Concorde? The view of Paris are amazing, especially at night.

6. See the tree at Notre Dame Cathedral. Having lived here for 10 years, I’ve witnessed the amazing evolution of the Christmas tree at Notre Dame. When we first arrived, I thought it was one of the worst decorated trees I’d ever seen, and often recommended people see it for its sheer ugliness. But it’s gotten better and better every year, and this year I can say that it’s truly lovely. Take the kids to see it at night. It’s magical.

7. Disneyland Paris. I still haven’t taken the kids to Disneyland Paris, but if the weather get just a few degrees warmer I just might this Christmas season. I’ve heard that they transform it into a sparkling winter wonderland with cozy wooden huts, fairy lights and even “snow” on Main Street. You can meet with Santa in his toy workshop and enjoy Christmas-themed parades, complete with an army of marching toy soldiers. Look here for more details.

8. Trocadéro on Ice. Here is a new Paris tradition (only three years old) that sounds awesome but I haven’t yet been there. Apparently, the fountains of Trocadéro are transformed into a 400 square meter ice rink lined with cottages and other scenery that would make you believe you’re in the High Alps. Each of the cottages have traditional foods and specialties from several European countries that are participating in the festival, from Austria through Romania. Click here for more details, but it runs until January 2nd.

9. The Holiday Window Displays. I admit, having lived in New York before moving to Paris, it took me awhile to get used to the holiday window displays in Paris. I’ll be frank: I thought they were lame. If I have to be really honest, I still think so. I much prefer for wonderful, detailed holiday scenes of Lord & Taylor and Saks Fifth Avenue. But my kids enjoying watching the quirky little scenes presented by department stores such as BHV and Le Bon Marche, even as the most non-Christmassy music in the world (think: “I Feel Just Like a Child” by Devendra Banhart - have you heard those lyrics??) rains down upon our heads.

If you want Anglo-Saxon-beautiful holiday lights, visit the gorgeous Cathedral façade at the Galleries Lafayette. Magnifique!

Bon fête à tout le monde!!

Gifts for Kids in Paris: le ciel est à tout le monde

2011-12-10T10:52:00.010+01:00

There’s a bit of a baby boom going on in my circle of friends this month, which means that I’m spending a lot time contemplating baby gifts. Like most people, I’m always tempted to buy baby clothes because they’re just so damn cute. But as a mom, I know that new parents are usually drowning in baby clothes and many of those sweet little outfits only get worn once for the "thank-you" picture, if at all. So, I try to think more practically.

These days, one of my favorite gifts to give is a set of baby dishes. I mean, it’s the perfect present, don’t you think? Practical yet cute. Unique yet useful. So I was really excited when I stumbled across the boutique le ciel est à tout le monde a few weeks ago, which exclusively offers dishware for children. Adorable plates, cups, bowls, spoons, even lunchboxes, as far as the eye can see. So cute!

What I like best about these dishes is that so many of them are distinctly French. Many of the plates feature French characters such as Barbapapa or Oui-Oui. Others have cartoon drawings of princes and princesses spouting French sayings or Parisian scenes. I'm not sure, but I think that such dishes aren't yet readily available in the U.S. or most other parts of the world. (BTW: if you can easily find dishes like these in your town, please leave me to my illusions.)

If you’re stuck for holiday gift ideas for while visiting Paris or you want something unique to send a friend's child back home, check this shop out. They have multiple locations, including the one I visited near the Jardin du Luxembourg (10 rue Gay Lussac, 75005), the Carrousel du Louvre (99 rue de Rivoli, 75001), and somewhere in the the 9th (7 avenue Trudaine, 75009). The boutique's budding website suggests that some shops offer colorful tables and chairs for kids, knapsacks, traditional wooden toys and more.

Practical Info:

Address: 10 Gay Lussac, 75005 Paris

Metro: Odéon (line 4); Bus: 21, 27, 38, 85. RER B: Luxembourg

Hours: 10:30am-1:00pm - 2:30-5:30pm

Website: www.cielestatoutlemonde.free.fr

Theater for Kids in Paris: A December Round-Up

2011-12-02T15:08:00.006+01:00

Yay, it’s December! All the Starbucks are filled with holiday music. The city is awash in very ugly Christmas trees. And all the stores on the Champs-Elysées have literally rolled out the red carpet for holiday shoppers. Ah, the holiday season in Paris has begun.

Seriously though, December is such a fun time to do things with kids in Paris. I’ll be writing about the various Christmas activities for kids in an upcoming post, but today I wanted to focus on the many fantastic shows for kids that are running this month.

Theater for kids is a big deal in Paris. Almost as big as the movie scene. Every month, you can find a dozen or more kid-friendly spectacles for children aged 24 months on up. While sometimes your child will need to speak French to enjoy these shows, many performances are music-based, mimed, dance, or even take place in English. There’s really something for everyone.

Here are my top 5 picks for spectacles during the month of December:

1. T’choupi Fait Son Spectacle. If you know who T’choupi is – or rather – if your child knows who T’choupi is, this is a good one to see. For those who don’t know, T’choupi is a 3-year old animated penguin who gets into all kinds of trouble. Personally, I detest T’choupi (his voice is SO irritating), but my children adore him. So we went to the show. It was big hit. Lots of music, bright colors, actors in bobble-headed penguin costumes, a bit of dancing, and topped off with a spray of bubbles over the audience at the end. I thought it could have used more audience participation – and where was the T’choupi and Doudou theme song? But hey – I didn’t hear the kids complaining.

The show lasted about 1-1/2 hours, including intermission. I recommend it for any child age 3 and older who loves T’choupi. I also recommend that you take advantage of the champagne available at the bar during intermission. It makes T’choupi’s voice a lot more bearable.

Casino de Paris, 16 rue de Clichy, 75009. Until December 31st. In French. For more information, click here.

2. Princes et Princesses. As the title suggests, this play is based upon French story-teller and animator Michel Ocelot’s book and animated film “Princes and Princesses.” The story is actually four unique fairy-tales, each taking place in a different culture, from Africa to Japan. It’s the first time the story has been adapted for the stage, and I’m very excited to see it. It lasts for 1 hour and is recommended for children ages 5 and up. (Hopefully my 4 year old can handle it!) We’re going on Sunday. I’ll report back here afterwards.

Theatre Marigny, Carré Marigny, 75008. Until December 31st. In French. For more information, click here.

3. Cat in the Hat. Who doesn’t know the Cat in the Hat? Even French children do. The famous Dr. Seuss book was adapted for stage by Katie Mitchell – and hurrah – it’s in English! Recommended for kids of all ages.

Théâtre de la Ville, 2 Place du Chatelet, 75001. December 21-30. In English. For more information, click here.

4. Disney on Ice. Got a little Mermaid fan on your hands? No? What about Lightening McQueen? Tinkerbell? Woody? Well, there’s sure to be some character your kid loves at the Disney on Ice show. It sounds kind of fun, really – full of traditional Disney songs and ice dancing. (How does Lightening McQueen skate? I’m curious.) You need to move fast if you want to see this one, however. It’s only running until December 11th.

Zenith de Paris, 211, avenue Jean-Jaurès, 75019. Until December 11th. For more information, click here.

5. Cirque Éloize iD. At the end of December, hip-hop’s answer to the Cirque de Soleil comes to Paris. “Cirque Eloize iD” is a show produced by a world-famous Quebecois urban circus troupe. Set against a changing cityscape, 16 acrobats (and one stunt biker) perform incredibly high-level gymnastics, flipping, twisting, contorting balancing, juggle, break dancing, roller-blading and more to an electrifying hip-hop beat. I’ve read reviews of this show as performed in other countries and it sounds amazing. It’s recommended for kids ages 5 and up. But I’m taking my 4-year old anyway. All that flipping about seems right up his alley.

Théâtre Nationale de Chaillot, 1 place due Trocadéro, 75016. December 24 , 2011 – January 20, 2012. For more information, click here.

If you've seen any of these shows - feel free to share your opinions in the comments!

How Kids in Paris can Celebrate St. Martin's Day

2011-11-10T15:38:00.009+01:00

Making lanterns in Berlin with paper mâché and balloons.

Although most people who don't live in Paris think life here must be one thrill after another, most of the time my life is exceedingly ordinary. Feeding the kids, fixing their breakfast, cleaning up after them, taking them to school, running errands, making dinner…let me tell you, even in Paris these activities are not glamorous. (If you don't believe me, read this.)

But every now and then, I have an experience that makes realize how unique and special my life is. Two weeks ago, while we were visiting my husband’s family in Berlin our friends organized a traditional German celebration for kids called a “Laternenumzug.” This “lantern parade” typically occurs on the Feast of St. Martin, November 11. German children make lanterns out of paper mâché (or other materials), secure small tea candles or battery-operated lights in them, and then march around their neighborhood after dark, singing special St. Martin’s Day songs.

This year was the third year I’ve been able to participate in this special custom, and it never fails to touch me. Partly because it pleases me for my children to participate in something that’s part of their cultural heritage, partly because it has become culturally significant to me, and particularly because it’s just plain beautiful to walk in the dark singing softly with warmly-lit colorful lanterns.

Why am I writing about this in Petit Paris? Because tomorrow you and your kids can also participate in a laternenumzug. The wonderful multilingual café Le petit café du monde entier is hosting one tomorrow, November 11th. Starting at 3pm, you and kids your kids can make lanterns, learn the special St. Martin’s Days songs (in German), and parade around the Square Gardette with the lanterns, starting from 5pm. You can learn more details about this wonderful atelier here.

And very soon, I swear, I’m going to do a full blog post on Le petit café du monde entier because it’s really such a fantastic place to bring kids of all cultures in Paris, even if there's not a special workshop going on (though there often is).

Have fun – and happy St. Martin’s Day!

Practical Information:

Address: Le petit café du monde entier, 95 rue Chemin Vert, 755011 Paris

Metro: St. Maur (line 3), Voltaire (line 9), St. Ambroise (line 9), or Père Lachaise (lines 2, 3)
Bus 69.

Hours: Starting from 3pm (although the cafe opens at 1oam)

Cost: The lantern-making workshop costs 3 euros.

Special Event for Kids at American Library in Paris: Saturday, November 5th

2011-11-04T11:04:00.008+01:00

Drive by post: I just heard of a really cool-sounding event happening tomorrow Saturday, November 5 2011 at the American Library in Paris for kids. Disney VoluntEars (not my pun, I promise you) are coming to the library to read an adaptation of "The Legend of Sleepy Hollow" to kids and help the kids develop written character sketches consistent with the story’s theme.

What a great event for all those budding writers and bookworms out there. Please note that your child should be able to read and write to attend.

Many thanks to Gail Boisclair of Perfectly Paris vacation rentals for alerting me to this event. I can’t tell you how happy it makes me to know that programs like this await my kids.

Practical Information:

Address: American Library in Paris, 10, rue du Général Camou, 75007

Metro : Ecole Militaire (line 8), Alma-Marceau (line 9), RER: Pont de l'Alma (line C) ; Bus: 42, 63, 69, 80, 82, 87, 92. You can also take the 72 bus and walk over the bridge to the Left Bank.

Hours: The event runs from Noon- 1:30pm.

Cost: Free for members of the library; €10 for non-members.

Website: www.americanlibraryinparis.org

What to do Wednesday: Bowling with Kids in Paris

2011-11-02T12:37:00.004+01:00

Bowling seems like such a uniquely American sport that I always forget Paris is home to a few bowling alleys. But as the rainy, cold season descends upon us, bowling is definitely a good indoor activity to keep in mind.

Earlier in the year, I took the kids duckpin bowling at La Quille in the 11th . It was good fun and I recommend it, but it was… um… different than most bowling experiences I've had. (Let’s just say that you can take the bowling alley out of the U.S. and you can take the U.S. out of the bowling alley. Read more about the experience here.)

By contrast, Bowling Foch, the gleaming 15-lane bowling alley beneath avenue Foch does give you the feeling of being transported into the U.S. Not that all American bowling alleys feature red neon lights, disco balls, and a constant stream of videos and pulsing music. But for those that do, Bowling Foch represents.

Despite holding enormous potential for overstimulation, it seems like a fun place to take kids. Although I didn’t take my children when I was there recently, I did spot a couple of families with kids. It’d probably be the most fun for kids over age seven since it’s all Tenpin bowling and the large balls might be too heavy for younger children. (That said, when I took my kids bowling in the U.S. this summer, they had fun rolling the ball down the alley by pushing it from the throw line.)

Because it’s the last day of school vacation, the bowling alley opens today at 2pm; three hours earlier than its usual weekday opening hour of 5pm. If you’re planning on going another day, it might be a good idea to call before you go: the alley occasionally closes for private events and parties. Yeah, it's rare that it happens, but Lord knows you don’t want to get the kids all hyped up for nothing.

Having never actually taken my kids to Bowling Foch, I'd love to hear anyone's thoughts on bowling with kids there. Just drop a note below in the comments!

Practical Information:

Address: 2 bis, avenue Foch. Note that the alley is underground. If you're not taking the metro to get there, it can be a bit tricky to find. But it's located behind the Arc de Triomphe, on (or rather below) avenue Foch.

Metro: Charles de Gaulle Etoile (lines 1, 6, and RER A). To find the alley, take the "avenue Foch" exit and keep walking toward "Parking Foch." You'll walk right to it.

Hours: Weekdays: 5pm-2am; Saturday & Sunday: 2pm - 5am.

Price: Unclear. At the bowling alley, they have a complicated schedule of prices that vary according to day and time. Sometimes they charge per person. Other times they charge per hours. Unfortunately, their website is no help in this regard. I do know that today the cost is 6.25 euros per person, per game. But that's a special (low) price.

Website: www.bowling-foch.com. A supremely unhelpful website, I must note.

6 Things to Do with Kids in Paris at Halloween

2011-10-24T11:27:00.009+02:00

When I arrived in Paris ten years ago, Halloween was barely a blip on the French radar. You only stumbled over a proper pumpkin (citrouille) by accident, and if I hung a paper skeleton and some fake cobwebs on my front door, my neighbors might have complained to the gardienne about the crazy American with poor decorating taste.

Today, even if it’s not celebrated everywhere, almost everyone in France knows what Halloween is. It’s not unusual for bars to throw Halloween-themed parties and costume shop owners know to gird their loins for a rush of customers. You can even buy candy corn! (Does anyone actually like that stuff?)

Kids in Paris have an increasing number of options, too. While some complain of the spread of American commercialization to France, I’m happy that my children get to partake in this fun tradition. Here’s 6 ways to celebrate Halloween with your kids in Paris:

1. Go pumpkin picking at Gally Farm – Every October American parents in Paris start to wonder where to buy the plump orange pumpkins suitable for making jack o’lanterns. The answer is here, Gally Farm, a large farm about 30 minutes outside of central Paris that not only has pumpkins for the picking, but lots of animals to pet, interesting workshops and other attractions for kids. This year, they’re offering a pumpkin carving workshop from October 24-October 31. Based on the samples that I saw there yesterday (see above), they’re pretty good at it. Check out their website for hours and directions.

2. Halloween Party at American Library – You can always rely on the American Library in Paris to celebrate Halloween or any American holiday. This year the library is throwing a Halloween party on Saturday, October 29 from 3:00-4:30pm. In addition to reading a spooky story and showing a short Halloween film, there will be arts and crafts, trick-or-treating, games, and costume contest! The party is open to all ages. PLUS - I just learned that the library is also hosting a "haunted library tour" for kids ages 8 and up on the same date from 6:00pm-8:00pm. Cost: free for library members; €10 for non-members. For more details, check here (for party) and here (for haunted tour).

3. Halloween Story Hour & Party at WH Smith – The British bookstore WH Smith is hosting a “spooky” story hour on Monday, October 31^st at 3pm. The featured book is “One Spooky Night: A Halloween Adventure,” by Kate Stone and after the reading there’ll be trick-or-treating (I have no idea how this will work), and a costume contest. It’s strongly advised to RSVP. Their website has details on how to sign up.

4. Go to Disneyland! For the entire month of October Disneyland Paris has a Halloween theme, featuring lots of Disney villains, Halloween-themed games, shows and parties. At this point, only a few official parties remain including: “Mickey’s Not-So-Scary Halloween Party” on October 28^th, which is a private after-hours costume party, “Terrorific Night,” October 30, and “Disney’s Halloween Party” on October 31, which starts at 8:30pm. Reservations are required. Cost: Between €31 -€43, depending on the party (kids and adults are same price). Kids under 3 are free. Click here for more details.

5. Go Treat-or-treating at Le Petite Café du Monde Entier. There's a fantastic new cafe for kids in Paris that rocks. I'm planning to devote an entire post to this awesome place, but for now I'll just describe it as a multilingual cafe where your kids can play, read and generally act like kids, while you sip tea or eat cake, though it's really much more than that. Anyway, on Tuesday, November 1, All Saint's Day (or La Toussaint, as it's called here), the cafe will be giving treats to any young guest that comes in a costume!

6. Throw Your Own Party – You can throw a great Halloween party for kids on your own in Paris – and these days, you don’t even have to order special decorations from the U.S.! For great decorations, costumes, and other accessories, head to A la Poupée Merveilleuse at 9 rue du Temple, across from BHV. You can also get great costumes, for adults and kids, at Au Fou Rire and Clown Montmartre at 22 and 22 bis, rue Montmartre in the 9^th.

For candy, you can now get American-style bite-sized candies in most Parisian supermarkets. But for the really traditional Halloween treats (like the all-important candy corn) check out American groceries such as Thanksgiving or My American Market. WH Smith also sells interesting Halloween-themed candy (such as a “Scream Egg” and “Haribo Horror mix” - ha!)

If you need other sweet treats for your party, I highly recommend ordering delectable,freshly baked cookies, brownies or bars from Lola’s Cookies. For Halloween, they’re featuring Pumpkin-shaped iced sugar cookies, pumpkin pecan cake bars, spooky brownies, and snickerdoodles. (I really shouldn’t have looked at that website, my mouth is watering now!)

Bon fête tout à le monde! Have a creepy Halloween!

Annual October Events for Kids in Paris

2011-10-22T07:23:00.013+02:00

Heaven comes to Porte de Versailles

Blast these deadlines! I’m glad to have work but because I’m swamped, it means I’m missing two of favorite annual October events in Paris. The Salon du Chocolat and Kidexpo both at Porte de Versailles this weekend (October 21- 24).

As I describe here, I’ve been taking my sons to the Salon du Chocolat, an annual chocolate fair, since their infancy. I strongly feel that every child should learn about the contributions chocolate can make to one’s health and society.

Well, not really. But I do love to eat chocolate. And watch the chocolate fashion show!

So healthy and nutritious...

This year, I was especially looking forward to going because Lil’Dawg is finally old enough to attend the chocolate-making workshop the fair offers for children. I'm sure he'd have a great time, and I could go around and stuff my face without having to lecture him on the perils of too much sugar. But alas, it’s not to be.

You go. Go for me. And, um, my kids. Because this space is about kids, right?

Anyway, while you’re out there, you should also check out Kidexpo, which is an annual trade show for children. I’ve only been once when the kids were very small, but I always thought it would be fun to return with them when they were older. In addition to kid-related products, the Expo offers hundreds of interesting and fun workshops, demonstrations, and activities for kids related themes such as sports, health, science, cooking, and plenty more.

Here’s a list of the activities offered (if you don’t read French use Google Translator to convert to English). Looks pretty cool, no?

So voilà! Two cool things to do with your kids in Paris this weekend. Have fun!

BONUS ACTIVITY:

Yesterday after I wrote this post, I discovered that Cirque de Soleil has temporarily set up booths in the Forum des Halles, where kids can take mini-lessons in circus-related activities such as juggling, tightrope walking, balancing, face-painting and more. This has been going on all week (very poorly advertised, I must say) but the last day is today, Saturday October 22nd.

Pup on the Tightrope

Steady...Steaaadddyy...

If you’re in the Chatelet/Les Halles area with the kids, check it out. There’s going to be a “parade of angels” in the afternoon, and there’s a chance to win two tickets to the circus every hour. Check it out!

Practical Information:

Salon du Chocolat & KidExpo

Address: 1 place de la Porte de Versailles, 75015 Paris

Metro : Porte de Versailles (line 12), Balard (line 8); Tramway (lines 2, 3); Bus : 39, 42, 80, 169.

Cost : Salon du Chocolat : 12.50 euros (adults) 6 euros (kids, 3-12).

Kid Expo : 12 euros (adults) 6 euros (kids 4-14), 15 euros "Pass duo" (1 adult, 1 child),
25 euros, Family Pass (2 adults, 3 children)

Websites: Salon du Chocolat, KidExpo

Cirque de Soleil Demonstration

Address: Forum des Halles, 75001
(look for the entrance near St. Eustache)

Metro: Chatelet (line 1, 4, 7, 14), Les Halles (line 4). RER: Chatelet/Les Halles

Cost: Free!

Website: Forum des Halles

Paris Playground Review: Jardin des Tuileries, the wickedest playground in Paris

2011-10-18T12:29:00.002+02:00

Confession: I hate playgrounds.

I take my kids to them, of course. Almost every day. But I dread it.

Why? Oh, it has something to do with trying to make sure my two small, reckless kids (who are usually running in opposite directions) don't break their necks, get kidnapped, take candy from strangers, get lost, get kicked in the face, etc.

It's, um, stressful.

But the for the kids of Paris, most of the playgrounds are awesome. There's pretty much some kind of play area every few blocks. Some are so cool that I find myself wishing that I could jump and climb and swing like the kids. But these, of course, are the ones that terrify me as a mom. I tend to urge my kids toward the less fun, calm playgrounds that only have one exit.

Not that that works.

The playground we visit the most is à la limite: the Jardin de Tuileries. It’s a large playground with multiple exits, which is usually a big thumbs down for me, but it’s close to our home and the kids love it, which is a big plus. I also tolerate it because it’s in the Jardin de Tuileries, which is so splendid and gorgeous that I can forgive its other sins.

Oh, but this playground is a wicked one. There’s just no other word for a playground that is mostly composed of an enormous rope-and wood climbing structure starts with an 8-foot, almost entirely vertical ladder without open rungs.

A mom's eye view of the slide. Holy....

How very wicked to tempt a child with that challenge! And how cruel to make it the main attraction of the playground, but restrict it to 6-year olds and up. (Not that anyone pays much attention to that. Just try to keep your 4-year old boy away.)

After the treacherous ladder, kids must navigate the ropes.
Not as easy as it looks!

It ends with a long metal slide

There’s more to the playground than the climbing structure, though. There’s a metal merry go-ground that spins terrifyingly fast…

There are lily-pad like jumping platforms that are great for kids of all ages....

There’s a slide for toddlers that is difficult for to climb and has a ridiculously steep chute.....

The rope hammocks are a hit for everyone....

Then there’s this little puppy: a revolving, tilted plate-like thing that I call “The Kid-Flinger”:

My oldest kid has been flung from this menace many-a-time. He loves it.

The good thing about the Tuileries playground is that it’s relatively easy to lure them away from the playground when it’s time to go. You can tempt them with the trampolines in the park, or the carousel, or you can convince them to have a foot race in the Tuileries’ beautiful grounds.

On the whole, here’s how I grade the Tuileries playground:

For kids over 5: A-

For kids under 5: B (though I'm sure my 4-year old would rate it A-)

For Parents of kids over 5: B+

For Parents of kids over 5: B-

Maybe it’s because I have two kids with dare-devilish tendencies, but I spend an awful lot of time trying to keep my small ones away from structures that are too dangerous for them… without having a lot of interesting alternatives to offer them. Bigger kids and their parents will probably enjoy it more.

Have you been to the Tuileries playground? What do you think?

What to do Wednesday: Short Films at the Forum des Images

2011-10-12T08:29:00.012+02:00

Paris is the ultimate movie city. On any night of the week, at almost any hour, you can choose from a fabulous range of films, from domestic to foreign, from indie to big-budget, from modern to classic. Back in the day when I actually went to the movies, the wealth of options thrilled me.

Nowadays, I’m thrilled by the range of movies available for children. Kids in Paris have almost as many options for movies as adults. Not just big theater stuff: the city hosts at least two film festivals for kids every year. Even better, the Forum des Images at Les Halles offers movies for kids every day -- and I'm not talking about Bambi or Kung Fu Panda. The Forum owns a massive collection of movies that were produced around the world, from Brazil to Russia, and that range from contemporary to old black-and-whites. A kid-friendly selection of these unique films can be accessed daily. Click here for details.

But wait - there's more! Now through December 2011, the Forum des Images is hosting a movie showing for kids ("Les Apres-Midi des Enfants") every Wednesday and Saturday at 3pm. Featured movies come from France, China, Germany, Finland, the U.S., Italy, and more, and each film reflects the theme "All in the city." Click here for a complete listing of the titles and descriptions.

Isn't that just so cool? It's like a weekly film festival that last for months! Brilliant.

But before heading over to Les Halles, be sure to check whether the movie is age-appropriate for your child. Some movies are suitable for kids as young as two, while others are better for older kids.

Allez...tous en ville!

Practical Information:

Address: Forum des Hall, 2, rue du Cinema, 75001 (Kid movies are usually located in Salle 300).

Hours: 3pm, Wednesdays and Saturdays, through December 2011.

Metro: Les Halles (lines 4), Chatelet (lines 1, 7, 14)

Cost: 3.50 euros (kids, adults)

Website: www.forumdesimage.fr

Concert for Kids at Théâtre de Châtelet

2011-10-03T13:21:00.004+02:00

Many, many years ago when my husband and I could make spontaneous outings, one of our favorite things to do was to attend the classical concerts held every Sunday morning at the Théâtre de Châtelet. These hour-long concerts required no reservation, had open-seating, and at € 24 per ticket, were extremely reasonably priced. And the music was invariably excellent.

At least I think it was because we kept going back.

OK, to be honest, what I remember best about the concerts wasn’t the music but that it was a family affair. Kids in Paris might not be welcome in “grown up” restaurants, but they were welcome at the Theatre de Châtelet on Sunday mornings. Dawg and I loved watching the kids; they were clearly thrilled to sink into those elegant, claret-colored seats and take part in an adult activity. We swore that when we had kids, we’d be there all the time.

Many, many years later, we’re still waiting for the day when our kids can attend such a thing without totally humiliating us. But maybe your kids are ready. The theatre seems to have made the concerts even more kid-friendly than before, with special programs and pre-concert ateliers designed to teach kids about music in a fun way.

Look here for the concert schedule for October and November. Who knows... maybe we’ll be able to join you soon!

Practical Information:

Address: Théâtre de Châtelet, 1 place du Chatelet, 75001.

Metro: Châtelet (lines 1, 4, 7, 11, 14) or buses 58, 67, 69, 72, 74, 76, 81, 85

Hours: 11 am (see schedule for dates)

Cost: Concert: €5 for kids; €10 for adults; Atelier: €3

Website: www.chatelet-theatre.com

What to do Wednesday: Drawing on the Walls at Lilli Bulle

2011-09-28T15:11:00.016+02:00

I love when I discover places in Paris that truly understand kids (and their parents). I’ve found two in the last week, each deserving their own post. Today I want to write about Lilli Bulle, a tiny, delightful boutique for kids located in a très hip district near Bastille.

Something about this store makes you long for a gentle past; a time when children played with toys made of wood or hand-sewn from soft, colorful cloths. When kids dressed beautifully and fashionably, without absurd phrases and brand names stamped across their chests. At Lilli Bulle, you can believe that if only you buy their lovely products, you and your kids could live out this dreamy past. For everything at Lilli Bulle is beautiful and fashionable, or made from wood or soft, colorful cloths.

But for all its old-world charm, the shop is undeniably modern. I mean, it’s hard to imagine children of yore wearing multi-colored stockings, for example, with stripes, polka dots, and stars. Or a fuzzy chick-yellow vest. Lille Bulle somehow manages to be timeless and funky at the same time.

Apart from the fab clothes, the reason why you should high-tail it down to Lilli Bulle this week is because until Sunday October 2, children are invited to color the exterior of the store with markers. The store owner hired an artist to draw an intricate, Keith Haring-like outline of a jungle scene on the store’s façade. Kids get to use bright markers to fill in the outline of unique jungle flowers and mythical creatures.

As you can see, no particular talent at drawing inside the lines is required.

So, head on down to Bastille this week and bring out your kid’s inner Picasso. And as a mom of two boys, I beg someone to buy those funky multi-colored, multi-patterned stockings for your daughter. Believe me, if I had girls, those would be mine!

Practical Information:

Address: 3 rue Forge Royale, 11^th arrondissement (just off rue Faubourg St. Antoine)

Hours: Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm.

Metro: Faidherbe-Chaligny (line 8); bus 76.

Web: www.lillibulle.typepad.com (note that the store also has an e-shop)

What to do Wednesday: Visiting the "Of Toy and Men" Exhibition at the Grand Palais

2011-09-21T15:34:00.012+02:00

One of the many wacky digital images displayed at the "Of Toys and Men" exhibition

Until I had kids, I thought I was a kid at heart. Then my sons were born and I realized that I’m light-years away from my childhood. Much of the time, I have absolutely no clue what these babes are thinking. Why won’t my two-year old eat a broken cookie? What would possess my four-year old to drink his bathwater? How come they suddenly hate cherry tomatoes, when a few months ago they clamored for them like pieces of chocolate?

Fortunately, there are times when I recover the sense of excitement and wonder that I often felt as a child. Taking the kids to the “Of Toys and Men” exhibit last week at the galleries nationales, Grand Palais was one of those times. My kids and I were of one mind: toys are so cool.

I always worry that taking my children to a museum or exhibit featuring toys that they aren’t allowed to play with will be a nightmare. But every time, the kids have surprised me. Last year’s Playmobil exhibition was a smash hit in our household, as was our visit to the Doll Museum . Apparently, just seeing the toys and imagining that they could play with them was entertaining enough. (God – don’t you miss being a kid sometimes?)

Of course, it helps that “Of Toys and Men” isn’t your grandmother’s exhibition, where you shuffle quietly through the galleries with an intensely meditative expression plastered on your face. This exhibit is brimming with color and life. A multimedia retrospective, things twinkle, shimmer, blink, revolve. You’ll face larger-than-life digital dolls. See a grumpy Santa Claus being pelted with beautifully-wrapped gifts. Watch funny snippets of old black-and-white movies with toy themes, such as “Babes in Toyland.” You’ll witness how certain toys have evolved over the centuries and marvel at how essentially the same many have remained. You’ll see old friends: Barbie, GI Joe, Spiderman, Raggedy Ann, Smurfs, Super Mario Bros…. Star Wars action figures!

I tell you, I rushed from display to display with a smile on my face, as did the kids. And I vowed to participate in a toy drive this Christmas. Because the relevance and importance of toys in a child’s life is brought home to you, seeing this exhibit. And it broke my heart to think of kids that don’t have any.

After the exhibit ends, be sure to pass through the gift shop (basically a toy store), where the exhibition organizers have set up a large playhouse filled with small toys and interesting costumes where the kids can finally, finally, finally let go and play to their heart’s delight.

My oldest son can’t wait to go back and see the whole thing again. Actually, neither can I.

Practical Information:

Address: 3, avenue du Général Eisenhower
75008 Paris

Hours: Open every day except Tuesdays from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., late night on Wednesdays until 10 p.m. The exhibit runs from mid-September through January 23, 2012.

Price: €11.00 for adults; €8 for 13-25 year olds; 12 and under free. Parents of small children should not that strollers are not allowed inside galleries. You can check your stroller in the coatroom for free.

Transportation: Metro: Champs-Élysées-Clemenceau (line 1) or Franklin Roosevelt (line 9). Bus: 72.

Website: www.rmn.fr

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What to do Wednesday: Cinéaqua, Aquarium de Paris

2011-09-14T07:25:00.004+02:00

Admiring the fish at the Aquarium de Paris

It’s promising to be a lovely day in Paris. The sun shining. Birds singing. A bit of chill in the air to announce the coming of autumn. Perfect playground weather. And yet, what does Lil’Dawg want to do? Our favorite rainy day activity: visiting Cinéaqua, the strange but charming aquarium at Trocadéro.

It’s strange a place because it’s part aquarium, part movie theater, and part Hollywood movie-artifact museum. (Branding confusion, much?) But you know what makes it even weirder? It has a sushi restaurant in it. That’s just mean.

Bizarre themes notwithstanding, it’s a pretty cool place to spend a couple of hours. The aquarium is located beneath Trocadéro, a clever bit of symbolism that’s probably lost on young kids, but having to descend to reach the entrance does subtly prepare you for your time under the sea. What’s more, as you walk through the main part of the aquarium, you pass under an arching waterfall to enter a dim, maze-like underwater world.

Many of the tanks at Cinéaqua are gigantic – some about the size of a large movie theater screen– and smaller ones have ledges on which little kids can kneel for a good close up view. Scattered throughout the tank are three movie theaters, showing full-length water-themed films, such as “Hook” and “Pirates of the Caribbean” and documentary type films on one sea
creature or another.

Hands down, my kids’ favorite part of the aquarium (besides the gift shop) is the “touch pool,” a shallow pool where you can attempt to touch giant, brilliant-colored carp and sturgeon. If you’ve got really small kids, be prepared to end up with some really wet sleeves and shirts. (Actually, the last time we were there a 7 or 8-year old girl fell into the pool – so maybe you should bring a spare change of clothes for everyone…and remind your kids not to lean too far forward!)

According to the Cinéaqua website, the aquarium also hosts “creative workshops” on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. I haven’t yet tried those, but it’s definitely on my rainy Wednesday list!

The biggest downside of this underwater world is the price: a shocking €19.50 for adults and €12.50 for kids age 3 and up. For these prices, I would ordinarily expect to see killer whales performing tricks, or piranhas indulging in a feeding frenzy. But I suppose if you stay and watch an entire movie or two, it’s a fair price. If you think you’ll go often, you can also get the annual pass (€59.00 for adults; €46 for kids), which eases the bite.

But those people at Cinéaqua aren’t idiots. They know there always comes a day (usually rainy) when the parents of Paris will pay any price to get the kids out of the house for a few hours. And Cinéaqua will be there. Waiting. Like Jaws.

Practical Information

Address: 5 Avenue Albert De Mun, 75016 Paris

How to get there: Metro: Trocadéro (line 6, 9) or Iena (line 9). Bus: 22, 32, 72, 82. The aquarium is directly opposite the Eiffel Tower in the Trocadéro gardens.

Hours: The aquarium is open 365 days a year, from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm, cashiers closed at 6:00 pm.

Price: €19.50 for adults; €12.50 for kids age 3 and up. Special prices for students and seniors.

What to do Wednesday: Trampolines at Jardin des Tuileries

2011-09-07T14:07:00.000+02:00

There's joy in jumping

For some reason, school children in France have Wednesdays off. None of us are native Frenchies in our household (well, except for my kids, I guess – ha!), so I have no idea why somebody thought it was a good idea for kids to break their rhythm in the middle of the week. I imagine that in the old days it didn’t matter so much – most moms didn’t have jobs outside of the home and were around to take care of the kiddos.

These days, it’s a bit different. I face Wednesdays with a mixture of trepidation, hope and terror, thinking of how I’m going keep my little monsters entertained all day long, and still manage to get some work done.

The answer, of course, is to make them run, jump and play until they beg for mercy.

My favorite way of getting them into a reasonably docile state is taking them to the trampolines at the Tuileries. The trampolines are located at the end of the park closest to the Place de la Concorde entrance, rue Rivoli side. (They’re easy to find once you’re aware of them, but I swear I walked through this park almost every day for two years and never saw them.)

Anyway, you’ve got about six trampolines at ground level and for €2, each kid over 2 (and under 12) gets to bounce away on his/her own trampoline for 5 minutes.

A couple of warnings:

The trampolines are ultra-springy. This means that it feels like you’re walking on jello. When my oldest son was 2, he couldn’t wait to go on the trampoline. But when he did he totally freaked out; it was clearly too pliable for him. I couldn’t get him back on it until he was almost 4, and even now he still prefers jumping near the padded edges rather than the middle. But most kids love it and you see them happily performing all kinds of circus-like somersaults.

It can get very crowded. Try to avoid high peak times like late afternoon or school holidays. There can be a steady line of as many as 20 kids in line for the trampolines, meaning that everyone has a wait of about 15 minutes. If you’ve got a wiggler, this can be a problem. Mornings are good, even on school holidays. Traffic tends to be thinner on slightly overcast days as well.

If they haven't exhausted themselves by the time you're ready to leave the trampolines, you can always head to the Tuileries playground, which is one of the wickedest playgrounds I've ever seen.

But I'll have to tell you more about it later. The little ones are rousing from their played-out stupor and are demanding more fun.

Back into the fray...

Practical Information:

Where: Jardin de Tuileries, near place de la Concorde entrance, side closest to rue Rivoli.

Cost: 2 euros per ticket; 10 tickets for 15 euros.

Metro: Tuileries (line 1); Concorde (line 1, 8, 12). Bus: 48, 72, 81, 94

For more details on what you can do in the Tuileries with kids, click here.

Apple Picking in Paris: Gally Farm

2011-09-01T15:23:00.000+02:00

I love September. The crisp air, blue skies and golden light, the first leather boots of the season on display in store windows. But even more than leather boots, I love the late summer foods that appear in September. More exotic favorites include those tiny, super-juicy Reine Claude plums. And just thinking about Chanterelle mushrooms (girolles) sautéed with onions and lardons makes my mouth water. But mostly, when September rolls around I get a hankering for apples. Sweet crunchy apples.

In the spirit of the season, Dawg and I took the kids apple-picking at Gally Farm last Sunday. It was fun. Well, actually, I have some dim memory of myself on my knees in the apple groves, shaking a Gala apple at the sky and screaming that with God as my witness, I would never buy apples from a supermarket again.

Yeah, it was pretty nice.

It wasn’t just the exquisite freshness or sweetness of the apples that made the experience so special. It was the atavistic pleasure that comes with consuming food straight from its source. Seeing my city kids running through the long grass of the groves, joyfully piling apples into their baskets. Dreaming of all the pies, applesauce and preserves I would make (it could still happen!).

After we’d picked about 5 kilos (12 lbs) of apples, we wandered over to the raspberry fields and picked about a half kilo of those. Then we went to the tomato hothouse and plucked about two dozen off the vine. Then we piled our goodies into a wheelbarrow and trundled off to the caisse to pay for our pickings. The total for an afternoon of wholesome family fun – and a crapload of fresh fruit? €18.00 euros. As I kept exclaiming in the car on the way home: "In Paris, a half-kilo of raspberries alone might cost 18 euros!"

Can't wait until we return -- to pick out our Halloween pumpkin.

Practical Information:

Address: Route de Bailly à Saint-Cyr-l'Ecole 78210 Saint-Cyr-l'Ecole.
It can be confusing, but once you get to Saint-Cyr-l'Ecole, look for route D7. Note that the Cueillette (the place where you pick) is about a quarter-mile down the road from the part of the farm where the animals are housed and the workshops are held.

How to get there: You'll need a car. Click here for further details.

Hours of Operation: The farm is open daily. Mon, Tue, Thurs., Fri.: 10am- 12, and 2-6pm (6:30pm, May-Sept). Wed.: 2-6pm. Weekend and Holidays: 10am-6:30pm (7pm May-Sept.).

Cost: Depends on what kind and how much produce you pick!

Fête de Tuilieries: An alternative to EuroDisney

2011-07-08T15:39:00.000+02:00

I admit: I haven't yet had the guts to take on Disneyland with the kiddos. It's so close to Paris - just a half-hour on the local commuter train - and yet, I'm terrified of the big crowds, exciting rides, and long lines. The combination of these things will almost certainly spark a meltdown in at least one of my kids. And I just. can't. face it.

Luckily for both me and my kids, we don't have to taken on the madness of Disneyland to enjoy a carnival atmosphere. Every summer, the Jardin de Tuilieries hosts a large fete, with dozens of rides, games, and attractions that kids love. There are bumper cars for both big kids and small; mechanical car rides for the under 5 set, trampolines with harnesses so kids can do somersaults in mid-air, enormous plastic ball-things set on water that kids can climb inside and float about, a flight simulator, mechanical swings, a Ferris wheel, rock climbing equipment, and even a small roller coaster. You can also get all the usual carnival fare including cotton candy, ice cream, granitas, churros, waffles, crepes, candy apples, and other yummy, tooth-rotting stuff. My kids adore it and they don't give a fig that they're not seeing Mickey Mouse.

And the best part? No lines.

Practical Info:

Address: Jardin de Tuileries - 1st arrondissement.

Metro: Tuileries (line 1); Concorde (line 1); Bus - 72.

Opening Hours: 11am-11:45pm, Sun. - Thurs.; 11am-12:15 am Fri & Sat, and holidays.

Dates: June 24- Aug 22, 2011.

7 Thing to Do with Kids at the Parc de la Villette

2011-06-10T16:08:00.000+02:00

(The Geode - Parc de la Villette)

Okay, I admit it. Every time I’ve gone to the Parc de la Villette, getting there has been a bit of a disaster. I’ve taken wrong buses, wrong subways, gotten lost, and once had to ask a bunch of 12-year olds to carry my infant in his stroller up and down a double-flight of stairs (which bridged an ice-covered canal), while I carried my kicking, screaming, hitting, wriggling toddler up and down the same.

But once you’re there, it’s quite nice.

If you’re looking for a single location that holds a wealth of kid-friendly activities, then the Parc de la Villette is for you. Don’t expect to be overwhelmed with lots of green grass here. The Parc de la Villette is monstrously large and super-urban; in fact, most of its 55 acres are paved.

But look at all it has to offer!

La Cite des Sciences et des Industries – a hands-on children’s science museum that focuses on geology, astrology, volcanoes, oceans, and plants. It also contains a planetarium, small aquarium, and even a submarine.

La Cite des Enfants -- this museum is actually located inside the Cite des Sciences. I dare any child not to love it or any adult not to wish that they were kids again. This museum is divided into several "discovery zones" filled with kid-sized grown-up equipment. For example, in the construction site section, kids don little hard hats and protective vests and can operate a small crane or push wheelbarrows filled with foam blocks. Or kids can film themselves in a kid-sized TV studio. There's also a labyrinth, an obstacle course, and so many other cool things I can't begin to describe them all. Note that reservations are required.

La Cite de la Musique – a museum where kids can learn about musical instruments and musical history with a special audio tour that’s available in both English and French. Throughout the year there are various concerts and workshop for kids as well, though generally in French.

Several themed gardens/playgrounds – The most popular ones include the Jardin du Dragon, where kids clamber over a gigantic dragon-shaped climbing structure; the Jardin du Vent et Dunes, a playground with a rolling landscape where kids under 12 can (among other things) jump on massive air-filled mattresses and power a windmill by pedaling. The Jardin des Miroirs, a garden filled with mirrors is another popular one. And the one that I’m most curious about, but I don’t think my kids are ready for, is the Jardin des Frayeurs Enfantines (Garden of Childhood Fears), which apparently takes you through a dark, wooded path filled with mysterious forest sounds.

La Geode IMAX movie theater: resembling a massive silvery planet plunked down in the middle of Paris, this 3-D movie theater, with its panoramic screen, transports you to the dinosaur age, underwater, or outer space, depending on the film showing. As of today, the dinosaur age film is playing.

Canal Boat Rides. I’ve never done this, but I think it would be pretty cool to see Paris from the vantage of canals that traverse the city. Plus, I hear that kids, even very small ones, are fascinated with the locks and tunnels that you pass through. You’ve got your choice of canal boat rides originating at the Parc de la Villette. With Paris Canal, you can have either a one-hour or three-hour tour: the first, only touring the canals, the second, touring the canals then heading out to the Seine. With the Canauxrama Canal Boat Rides, you travel the St. Martin Canal from Parc de la Villette to Place de la Bastille.

Carnival Rides. If you don't know where to find carnival rides in Paris (which, I think, would be a bit of an accomplishment; sometimes I feel you can't go three blocks in Paris without tumbling over a merry-go-round of some sort), you certainly can find some cool ride here. A traditional merry-go-round, big swings, and other fun stuff can be found at the center of the park, not far from the Jardin du Vent et des Dunes. And, of course, there's all kinds of yummy junk food that comes with carnival rides -- crepes, waffles (gaufres), cotton candy (barbapapa), and ice cream.

Really, the place is kid-heaven.

***

Practical Info:

Address: The park is sprawling so there are several point of entrance. The major ones include avenue Jean-Jaures or avenue Corentin Cariou in the 19th arrondissement.

Metro: Parc de la Villette (line 7): Porte de Pantin (line 5); Bus: 75 (though it's a good 10-minute walk through a construction zone).

Opening Hours/Prices: Click on individual links provided for current opening hours and prices.

Film Festival for Kids in Paris - this weekend!

2011-05-20T12:31:00.001+02:00

Gotta love how the French love movies. The Cannes and Deauville film festivals are among the most famous in the world. Paris has several film festivals of its own throughout the year. And when there's no festival on, you can still see movies from all over the world, both old and new, in their original language, in Paris.

Given this passion for movies, it shouldn't come as a surprise that Paris also features film festivals for children. But surprised I was, anyway. And delighted. You won't find any Disney at these festivals, but original short films by little-known and well-known artists.

This weekend you can introduce your kids to the silver screen, Parisian-style. In honor of the city-wide celebration: Fête de la Nature, the Jardin des Plantes is hosting a film festival for children ages 2-10 on Saturday, May 21 and Sunday, May 22. The festival, called "Pousse-pousse" will show 24 short films (from 4 to 24 minutes long) at the Grand Amphithéâtre du Muséum throughout the weekend. All the films have a nature theme and feature directors from France, Russia, Germany, Brazil, the United States, and more.

Bonne Fête!

Practical Info:

Address: Grand Amphithéâtre du Muséum national d'Histoire naturelle, 57, rue Cuvier, 75005, Paris.

Hours: For details on the movies and time of showings, click here.

Parc de Bercy/Jardin de Yitzhak Rabin

2011-05-17T10:47:00.000+02:00

When you’ve got small kids, it’s easy to get stuck in a rut. We know their favorite playgrounds and pastimes, and often it’s easiest to do the same things over and over and over and over and over and over and over again, even in a wondrous place like Paris.

Determined to kick the rut’s butt, instead of heading to the Jardin de Tuileries like we always do, this past Sunday I took my oldest son (3.5 years) to ride his bike at the Jardin de Yitzhak Rabin/Parc de Bercy in the 12th arrondissement.

Only a 10 minute metro ride on the Line 14 from Chatêlet, and suddenly we were in another world. A park with a wild, woodsy feel, overlapping trees, dappled shade, long grassy stretches with families playing ball and picnicking. A far cry from the persnickety Tuileries where you can’t even sit on the grass! My son had a great time riding around, picking up fallen branches, zipping down curving flower-lined pathways. Older kids will be drawn the enclosed skateboard park, and probably won't mind passing a moment or two watching the skateboarders' jumps and flips.

We started out at the Jardin de Yitzak Rabin, wandered its length, and then walked over a pretty footbridge that connected the garden to the parc de Bercy. There, we encountered a little playground and after hanging out for awhile, made our way toward Bercy Village, admiring some ducklings in a lily pad-strewn pond along the way.

Bercy Village is a lively faux stone “village” made up of renovated 19th-century wine warehouses. It probably deserves its own post, but for now I’ll just say that it’s a fun environment for kids with lots of family-friendly eating places, waffle and crêpe stands, and sometimes live music. There’s also a decrepit old carnival ride for the little kiddies, a train that goes so slowly around its single track that sometimes the ride operator has to give it a good push to help it around the curves.

Our day ended with a meal at “The Frog” pub, which – bless them – has a kiddie menu. Even better the waitress plunked down a packet of crayons and paper as soon as we were seated.

It was a fun day for both of us and it felt great to experience something different. My son keeps asking when we’re going back. I don't mind. This park houses plenty of things that we didn't get to see: a labyrinth made of yew hedges, a Wind House, which houses an enormous weather vane, whimsical larger-than-life statues representing a variety of ethnicities, and a large vegetable garden, which is maintained by Parisian schoolchildren.

No chance of falling into a rut in this place anytime soon.

Practical Info:

Address: rue Paul Melbondo/rue de Bercy, 75012 Paris

Metro: Bercy, line 14 (Jardin Yitzhak Rabin entrance); Cour St. Emilion, line 14 (Parc de Bercy entrance)

Hours of Operation: Open daily,