A visit to Musée Grevin, Paris's wax museum

Here’s the trouble with Paris and children and wintertime.

1. It’s dark.

2. It’s cold.

3. It’s usually raining. 

4. By the time kids get out of school, it’s late. and dark. and cold. and usually raining.

So, both parents and children are completely unmotivated to go anywhere.  Well, at least, that’s what happens in my house. 

But since my kids’ school happens to be just next to the Musée Grevin, Paris's wax museum, I took them there to mill around before cocooning in our apartment. 

On the whole, young kids won’t find it the most entertaining on earth but it’s worth a visit if you’re wanting some indoor activity. For kids 8 and up, I’d bet the museum is probably pretty cool.  And I found the 19th century museum's gilded baroque architecture  and red-walled interior, both elegant and slightly tarty.  

For kids, the fun of the museum begins while standing in line for the tickets. Some smart person, probably a tired parent, designed the entrance with several ‘fun house” mirrors scattered about, so that kids can amuse themselves by laughing their squat or elongated appearance during the wait.

But beware: once you enter the museum, if you have very young kids, the fun may stop briefly.  Unbeknownst to me, the ticket price includes a lights-and-illusions show, which scared the bejesus out of my then-4-year old.  

See, at the very start of your visit, before you’ve seen a waxen anything, you’re shepherded into a large room with ornate mirrored walls.  Then the doors are shut, the lights go out and you’re treated to various optical illusions and light displays.  

Fake butterflies descend from the ceiling...green vines suddenly grow around columns.... all kinds of things happen.  It’s supposed to be awesome and magical but Lil’Dawg found it weird and terrifying. I had to talk him in a bright, cheerful tone throughout the whole thing to keep him from slipping into outright panic. 

Anyway.  Just a word to the wise. 

Things improved after the light show, but the boys seemed interested without being wowed.   

The problem isn’t that the wax works aren’t good – they are startlingly life-like and often arranged in poses so realistic sometimes you’re not sure who is part of the exhibit and who isn’t – but that younger kids have no idea who most of these people are.

Like, I was very excited to check out Brad Pitt and George Clooney.  But the kids were bored and rushed by them (which is why the picture is so blurry, sorry.)  

Boris Karloff as Frankenstein was a great hit, however.

As was, surprisingly, young Mozart.

And any person that happened to be holding a gun.

So, if you’ve got a rainy day on your hands, I say check it out. Why not? But with young kids you may want to do some prep work first.  Show them a few pictures of Brad Pitt and George Clooney.

Practical info. 

Address:  Musee Grevin (Wax Museum of Paris)

Metro:  Richelieu-Drouot (Lines 8, 9); Buses 39, 48, 67, 74, 85. 

Hours: 10am - 6:30pm (Mon- Fri.) 10am - 7pm (Sat.)  During summer, opening hours are longer, from 9am - 7pm.  Check here to be sure.

Price: Kids under 6: free. Kids 6-14: €15; Adults: €22.  

(Yikes, right? Crazy. But the museum is currently having a "winter special" where if you order online at least 5 days in advance you get 25% off the price.  And there are discounted prices for senior citizens, students, etc. as well)

Teens in Paris: Revisit History with Time Traveler Tours

Yes, this is supposed to be a blog about what to do in Paris with kids 12 and under, but I can't resist talking about a really cool way for teens to experience Paris.  American expat Sarah Towle has created a fascinating travel app that brings French history to life in the form of self-guided, interactive, story-based tour.

Half-tour, half-treasure hunt, the app literally walks you through an exciting murder mystery that took place in Paris more than 200 years ago. You’ll visit well-known Parisian sites connected to this infamous murder while simultaneously learning tons about Parisian history.

The app has gotten rave reviews from teens and educators alike, and was named a Top 10 2011 School Library and Journal App  and Top 10 2012 Educational Travel App.  To read about how Sarah came up with this excellent idea, visit her website: Time Traveler Tours.  

 And now - here’s Sarah with more details about the app... and for those of you who aren't (yet) in Paris, take a look at her exciting news at the end!

A New Generation of Tour Guide for a New Generation of Traveler: 

Time Traveler Tours interactive StoryApp itineraries

On your next trip to Paris, put the past in the palm of your hand – time-travel on your iPhone or iPod Touch to 1793 and the heart of the French Revolution with this unforgettable travel app by Time Traveler Tours.

Find out why Charlotte Corday, a 24-year-old convent-school girl of noble birth, stabbed a revolutionary leader to death as he soaked in the bath. What happened to her? Her king? Her queen? Her country?

Time Traveler Tours interactive iTineraries combine the traditional power of storytelling with the latest in mobile technology and games to bring history to life.

This first app in the coming series is truly epic: perfect for families, student travel groups, anyone really who loves a good yarn.  It’s also fully bilingual, in English and French. So learn a second language while you’re at it!

Beware Madame la Guillotine, A Revolutionary Tour of Paris is a daylong historical treasure hunt through central Paris, starting at the often-overlooked Palais Royal and ending at the Conciergerie Prison, the antechamber of the guillotine.

Follow in Charlotte’s footsteps as she traverses Paris in pursuit of her victim while passing through the following famous Paris points of interest:

· Louvre Courtyards
· Seine River
· Pont des Arts
· Café Procope
· Place St. Michel
· Palais de Justice

 * Discover the birthplace of the French Revolution and locate where Charlotte bought the knife she used to kill Jean-Paul Marat.

 * Dine where propagandist, Jean-Paul Marat, and his Revolutionary cronies once dined at the Café Procope. Recharge your batteries where they discussed such then-novel ideas as individual human rights. And get a 10% discount when you play the in-app game!

 * Visit Charlotte in her prison on the day of her death. Witness the conditions of her incarceration as well as those of Queen Marie-Antoinette.

 In addition to her just plain great story, Charlotte’s tour also features:

• Travel Tips
• Text-read Options
• Dedicated Maps
• Orientation Games
• Trivia Challenges
• “More Info” Historical Explanations
• And more than Two Dozen Treasure Hunts!

Beware Madame la Guillotine, A Revolutionary Tour of Paris offers residents and visitors, from 12-120, a fun and engaging way to explore the museums, monuments, parks, boulevards, and cafés that played a part in the French Revolution. Trips to the Ancien Régime and the Napoleonic Era are soon to come, followed by additional story tours to Paris as well as London, Boston, Florence, Amsterdam, and New Orleans.

Discover history with those who made it with Time Traveler Tours. And for all you armchair travelers out there, we’re delighted to be the first to announce that Beware Madame la Guillotine will launch as an iBook for iPad in January 2013 from Time Traveler Tales: History through story and games, at the tips of your fingers!

Bio:

Sarah Towle is a former linguistics professor and intercultural communications trainer who has lived in Paris since 2004.  She founded Time Traveler Tours in 2010; her storyapp, Beware Madame la Guillotine was released in 2011 to critical acclaim. Sarah's second title, also with a death theme, Day of the Dead is due for release in early 2013. Like, connect with, and Follow Sarah's progress at www.timetravelertours.com.

***

Thank you Sarah!

Where to visit Santa with kids in Paris

Doing "the wave" with Santa at Trocadèro

My last post about about that cool toy-themed passage where Santa Claus will be enthroned until early January got me wondering where else the children of Paris can sit on Père Noël's  lap and whisper their Christmas wishes.

I wasn't expecting to find much – the familiar tradition of photographing a crying baby on Santa's lap doesn't strike me as French at all.  And it's not really.  But like Halloween, it's an an Anglo-Saxon tradition that's slowly seeping into this culture. 

I’ve never taken my kids to sit Santa's lap. I found the man in the red suit rather terrifying as a child, and I certainly didn't like the idea of sitting on a bearded stranger's lap. But when I presented my kids with the idea, they were excited.  Lil’Dawg’s eyes lit up and he said, “The real one?” 

Ummm...

Anyway.  If you happen to be in Paris during December, here’s where you and the kiddos can get your picture snapped with the Jolly Old Elf himself.

1. Galeries Lafayette

Santa will be holding court in his “studio” on the 5th floor of this mammoth, elegant department store from now until December 24 during normal store hours. For more information, look here.  (And let’s hope that the Santa they have in the store is a little more plump than the one in this photo. Who wants to sit on the lap of a bony Santa?)

2. Printemps Haussmann

Starting on December 1, you can visit Santa in his workshop at the Printemps department store from 10am - 8pm.  Cost:  €5.  Look here for more info...and note that their Santa looks much better.  

3. Disneyland

As you might expect, there’s plenty of opportunity to see Santa at Disneyland Paris.  He’ll be featured in a daily Christmas parade on Main Street U.S.A. (which actually sounds quite nice, with dancing dolls and tin soldiers and, of course, favorite Disney characters)

Kids can also visit him in his workshop – well, not just his workshop – Disneyland has apparently created an entire village for Santa and his elves.  Kids can also write and mail letters to him there and they are guaranteed a response! (Anglophones parents...better find some way to explain why Santa will respond in French).

For more info look here. 

4. L’Hotel Meurice

One of Paris’s most sumptous hotels will feature Santa every Wednesday in December at their restaurant, from 3:30 - 5:30pm.  For just €45 per person, kids can get their photo taken with Santa,  give him their wish list, and receive surprises, hot drinks and gourmet treats.  Those better be some good treats!  

Look on L'Hotel Meurice’s Facebook page for more details.

Village JouéClub

As I mentioned earlier, for a more down-to-earth Santa experience, you can visit Santa at Village JouéClub, my new favorite place to buy toys in Paris. You can learn more about it right here on petit paris! 

Where to Buy Christmas Gifts for Kids in Paris

Just behind the Lego Man, you can see Santa's plush throne

Maybe I’m the last person to discover the most coolest and comprehensive “toy store” in Paris, but just in case I’m not, I figured I’d better write about it.

The place is called Village JouéClub  and it’s not a single toy shop, but 8-9 different boutiques all housed in a lovely Parisian passage coverte (covered passage) with Art Deco vaulted ceilings and patterned tiled floors.  Each "maison" offers toys, games, dolls, models, bikes, puzzles, scooters grouped by both age and category.   

The Village includes:

La maison des Poupée (House of Dolls) - Enter a world of pink: in there, it's dolls, all the time.

The Passage

La maison des Tout-Petits (House of the “Little Ones”)   - Lovely shop with all kinds of games, toys, stuffed animals and books for kids 5 and under.  

La Maison des Jouets en Bois (House of  Wooden Toys) - My German husband would love this one as he doesn't "believe" in plastic toys.  It is wonderful.

La maison de la Fête (House of the Party)  - Here's where you get all your party paraphernalia, including balloons, themed cups and plates, and party favors.  It also have an awesome variety of costumes (good to know for Halloween), face paint and masks. Here's where you can also find bikes, scooters, rollerblades, helmets and more!

La maison “Légo” (Lego House) -  'Nuff said, no?  Legos abound.

La maison des Jeux Éducatif et Creatif (House of Educational and Creative Games) Great store for older kids (5 - 13). Here's where you can find workbooks, educational toys and games, arts and crafts, and books.

La maison des Jeux de Société et Puzzles (House of Games and Puzzles)  This is a fun one. The lower level offers scores of board and card games for all ages. Upstairs offers even more - plus puzzles from the very simple to the mind-boggler.

La maison la Maison du Modélisme (House of Construction Models). For kids that enjoy putting stuff together, this store offers pretty much everything you can think of. 

There's also a Playmobile store that fall under one of the categories listed above, though I couldn't figure out which one.  But don't miss it because it is truly Playmobile Heaven. 

It also has an area in which you can throw a birthday party, a children's hair dresser and a video arcade for older kids. 

Plus, this Christmas, kids in Paris can get their picture taken on Santa's lap everyday from November 30 - January 6th. (Hours: Mon - Tue., Thurs - Fri. Noon - 8pm; Wed, Sat - Sun 11- 9pm.)  Photos cost €10 a piece.

I only discovered this place a few months ago and I’m half-grateful, half-annoyed that I didn’t know about this place when the boys were smaller.  Who knows how much more money I would have spent had I known about it?  But then, how much less frustration would I have experienced as I went from toy store to toy store, looking for a particular item?  

But better late than never: it's a totally rocking place to shop.  Because it's divided up into so many stores, it doesn't feel overwhelming and hectic. (Though to be honest, I haven't been there on a Saturday.)  Give it a try this holiday season.  It puts the fun back into shopping for toys.

Well, as long as you don’t take your kids. 

Do you have any tips about where to buy cool toys in Paris this Christmas? If so, please leave a comment below! 

Practical Info:

Address: 3 -5 boulevard des Italiens, 75002  (Passage des Princes)

Hours: 10am - 7pm, Monday - Saturday

Metro: Grand Boulevards (Lines 8, 9); Bus: 48, 39, 67, 74, 85.

Site:  www.joueclub.fr

Star Wars toy exhibit at Les Art Decoratifs

I don’t know about your kids, but mine are nuts for Star Wars. They were Darth Vader and Yoda for Halloween,  Storm Troopers are always present in their play, light sabers are just about the coolest thing ever, and my oldest strides about authoritatively while around humming Darth Vader’s “Imperial March” theme and breathing loudly.  

And they’ve never even seen the movie.

So, when I saw that Les Art Décoratifs were having an Star Wars toy exhibit, I figured it would be a hit with them. We’ve been to a couple other of toy exhibits at this museum, including the awesome Playmobile exhibit in 2010 and the Vilac toy exhibit in 2011, both of which they loved.

They found this one ‘meh.’  I think I was more excited by the toys than they were...after all, these were the action figures that were hot in my childhood.  

Like, for example, I was interested to see that there were two types of dolls for “The Empire Strike Back’s” Lando Calrissian: one with caucasian features (though still with brown skin) and the other than looked just like Billy Dee Williams, the gorgeous black actor who played him. (I wonder which was produced first?) 

Will the real Billy Dee Williams please stand up?

This didn’t interest the kids so much.

They did seem to enjoy looking at the toys and kept asking me about different characters’ names.  And they didn’t beg to leave, which is saying something.  

But they were a bit frustrated that they couldn’t play with the toys, even though I’d warned them that this was a looking exhibit, not a playing one. It also didn't help that most of the interactive videos weren’t functioning properly.  

In the end, they were probably most excited by the gift shop downstairs which had all kinds of highly overpriced Star Wars toys and paraphernalia.

So, do I recommend this exhibit?  Sure, why not? It’s a small exhibit, kids are free, and it’s something different to do. If your kid is a big  Star Wars freak, has seen all the movies, and knows all the characters maybe they’d find it more engaging than mine did.  There were a lot of older kids (say, 8 and up) there, who seemed to be really into it, so maybe it’s an age thing, too.  

Be prepared to wait in line though...every time I’ve walked past the exhibit on a Wednesday or weekend, the line has ben about 30 people (or more) deep.

May the Force be With You.

Practical Info:

Address:  Les Arts Décoratifs, 107, rue Rivoli.  75001 

Métro: Palais-Royal (Line 1, 7), Pyramides (Line 1, 14) or Tuileries (Lines 1)

Bus : 21, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95

Opening hours: Tue - Sun., 11am - 6pm. From now until March 17, 2013

Cost: Kids under 18, free; Adults: € 9.50

Web: www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

7 Tips for Visiting the Louvre with Small Kids

A real mummy at the Louvre..looks like it might groan, no?

Well, I did it.

For years, I’ve been saying I’m going to take the kids to the Louvre, but have always been afraid. It’s too vast.  It’s too...too...big.

A tour of the Louvre always starts out exhilarating – you run around saying ooh! look at this, and now look...that!  Then, when you least expect it, you realize the museum has turned into an ravenous monster and that you are trapped in its bowels, possibly forever. (Is that the Winged Victory again? Retreat! Reetreeeat!)

Do I want to experience that turning point with small kids? No, thank you.

But my kids have the good fortune to have the most famous museum in the world virtually on their doorstep. I want them to grow up really knowing it.  

So, we went.  And it was really fun.

Here’s how to take small kids to the Louvre without losing your mind: 

1. Know where you’re going.

It being so close to Halloween, there’s been lots of talk about mummies and zombies and so forth in our house.  So, I thought it would be fun for the kids to see a real mummy.  Ancient Egypt section, here we come.  But NOTHING ELSE.    

2. Get them pumped...but manage expectations.

As I mentioned when I took the boys to the Musée d’Orsay, I like to prep my kids before we go anywhere, be it the Louvre or Disneyland.  Because if our outing doesn’t meet their expectations, I’m doomed.

I would have liked to have done a mini-scavenger hunt, as I did for the Musee d’Orsay outing.  Or simply read them a kid’s book about the Louvre or Egyptians beforehand, but I didn’t have anything like that to hand.

So, I got them pumped by saying “Hey! I know where we can see a real mummy!”  Then  while they were dancing around with excitement, found them a picture of the actual mummy on the internet, so they wouldn’t get too wedded to that inevitable vision of a groaning zombie staggering about the museum swathed in messily wrapped bandages. (Which would have indeed been cool).

The picture did dampen their enthusiasm a bit, but Lil’Dawg still loved the idea of being able to say that he saw a real mummy.  We were out of the house in record time.

3. Buy tickets in advance

This I didn’t do, but as any parent with small kids knows, standing in a long line is to beg for a meltdown or some other public humiliation.  Better to skip lines where you can and look here buy your tickets in advance.  As with almost all museums in Paris, the Louvre is free for kids under age 18, so you only need to buy a ticket for yourself.  

4. Keep your kid in a stroller. 

Another key way to limit your line waiting! If you have a child in a stroller, you get to use the “special needs” entrance, which never has a line.  At the Louvre, the entrance for “special needs” persons is just to the left of the long line that you don’t have to wait in, by the big pyramid.  The guard will call a lift, for you, which will thrill any kids who are not stuck in the stroller because it seems like an amusement ride.  

5. Don’t get distracted.

Once inside the Louvre, it’s all too easy to get distracted.  And it’s all the harder when the kids are are actually interested in the artwork because that gets you all excited and you start dreaming that they’ll be art historians, perhaps curators in these very halls, and then you’re saying - look boys, what do you think this is? and what about this...?

And the next thing you know, the Louvre monster has got you.  Keep moving.

6. Turn the visit into a game

As I said before, I didn't have time to prepare a miniature scavenger hunt as I did the last time we visited a "grown up" museum, but I was able to make up a little game on the spot.  When we entered a room, I’d quickly survey the place and say things like:  “Who can find the statue with a cat head?” And they got all excited rushing around to find it.  And sometimes they’d join in with their own “I Spy” sort of questions.  It's just too cool when they get into stuff like that!

7. Get out! Get out! Get out!

Every parent knows that moment when it’s time to leave a place.  When at the Louvre, try to anticipate it at least 10 minutes in advance. Even though there were exit signs everywhere, we managed to circle the Egyptian exhibit, going up and down a couple of staircases, twice before finding our way out.  If I had waited for the first signs of boredom or tiredness, it would have been so much the worse for all of us.  

As it was, we made our escape with all of us still in good spirits, with lots of excited chatter from the kids about seeing a real mummy and a sphinx.  

One week later, they’re still talking about it.   

Mission accomplished, eh?

Practical Info

Address - Musée du Louvre, rue Rivoli, 75001

Metro:  Louvre-Rivoli (Line 1) Palais Royale-Musée du Louvre (Lines 1, 7); Bus 21, 39, 69, 72, 95, and much more!

Hours:  Mon, Thurs. Sat: 9am - 6pm.  Wed & Fri.: 9am - 9:45 pm. Open every day, except Tuesdays and certain holidays. 

Cost:  Adults €11 (for regular entry); children under 18 are free.  

Website: www.louvre.fr

7 Things to do with Kids in Paris at Halloween (2012 edition)

Yes, you can get Halloween costumes in Paris!

Well, it’s that time of year again...the time of year when I get all wistful, thinking about how my childhood friend Karen and I would lie awake at night for hours during sleepovers, planning our Halloween costumes.  This planning would usually start sometime in September, and often involved us making elaborate and rather unique disguises (one year she went as a washing machine, and I went as a box of laundry detergent).

In Paris, of course, Halloween is nothing like it is in the States and I feel a bit sad for my kids missing out on what I call “real Halloween”.  

But then, I realize that they’re not really.  They look forward to Halloween all year long.  They quote at length from Charlie Brown’s Halloween special.  They plan their costumes for months.  And although if they tried to go trick-or-treating here, they’d end up with a bag full of baguettes at best, they’ve always attended Halloween parties, worn costumes and eaten plenty of candy.  

So, we American expats in Paris need not fret that our kids are missing out on Halloween.  Kids can definitely have a “real” Halloween in France, even if it’s different from the one of our childhood. 

Now, on to some Halloween fun for kids in Paris this year!

1. Pumpkin-picking at Gally Farm.  Yes, yes, I write about this every year, but I love this farm so.  It's just so easy to get in the Halloween mood by buying big, beautiful pumpkins for Jack O’ Lanterns.  The farm is about 30-40 minutes outside of Paris (you’ll need a car to get there) and there’s enough to do to spend all day there, from feeding young goats to picking apples to clambering over stationary tractors.  Those of you with older kids, should check out the pumpkin-carving workshop, which will be held everyday from Saturday, October 27 to October 31st from 2:30 - 5pm.  

2. Halloween Party at the American Library of Paris. The American Library in Paris is holding its annual Halloween party and story hour on Saturday, October 27 from 3:00-4:30pm.  According to the library’s website, there will be Halloween-themed arts and crafts, a costume contest, a parade, a brief screening of a Halloween film, and a spooky musical performance!  Cost: €25 for families, free for members of the library.  Click here for more details. 

3. Ghost Stories and Trick-or-Treating at WH Smith.  Starting at 3:30 pm on October 31st, the British bookstore WH Smith on rue Rivoli will be hosting a Halloween celebration with ghost stories, a Halloween costume contest and - best of all - trick or treating with 20 neighboring businesses. That’s right...kids in costume can actually go door to door (or rather business to business) and get candy, just like in the U.S. Sweet, huh?  You can find more details here.  

4. Disneyland Paris

Like every year, Disneyland Paris has dedicated the entire month of October to Halloween, peppering the entire park with Halloween-themed decorations and trotting out their most evil Disney villains to mingle with the guests (and apparently making some perfectly nice ones, like Mickey Mouse, into malicious creatures).  There will be parades, shows and all kinds of Disney awesomeness.  Here’s the website for more details.

5. Halloween Party at Joe Allen Restaurant

Joe Allen restaurant, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this year, is a classic in Paris, being one of the first New York-style restaurants to serve a decent hamburger. These days, there is no shortage of yummy hamburgers in Paris but when you’re craving an Americaneque atmosphere and a good brunch, it’s a good place to go.  Plus, the restaurant, whose owner is American, always celebrates American holidays and events, from Independence Day to the U.S. Election.  This year, the restaurant is hosting a Halloween party on Oct 31, starting at 7pm.   (Kids can stay until 9pm).  There’s going to be a haunted house, magicians, make-up artist, and trick or treating.   Price for kids is €20, adults €30.  Look here for information.  

6. Le Manoir de Paris (Haunted House)

Last year, Paris unveiled its first year-round haunted house in the gloomy Manoir de Paris. The Manoir is a large, sinister-looking house that the Adaams family would find cozy. Guests are taken on a guided tour, witnessing the reenactment of several freaky  and/o gruesome Parisian legends, while bloody or gruesome figures pop out at you and lurk in dark corners.  I haven’t been, but from the reviews I’ve read, it sounds pretty entertaining.  Don’t take little kids: it’s most appropriate for kids 10 and up.  Although they put on this show year-round, they’re having a particularly spooky Halloween special.  And you can request the tour in English.  Look here for more details.  

7. Halloween Party at Aquarium de Paris 

The Aquarium de Paris, an aquarium that is half-fishtanks, half-movie theater, is throwing a Halloween party for adolescents from age 11 - 15.  If you’ve ever been to this space, you can only imagine how cool and spooky this venue would be for a Halloween party.  The aquarium is underground and dark, as aquariums tend to be, with lots of unexpected nooks and crannies and mysterious-looking fish.  For the party, they’re going to make it even creepier and throw a DJ and some funky lighting into the mix.  They’ll be a dance floor in front of one of the largest aquarium tanks in the place and if I were a tween or teen, I’m sure I’d want to go.  Cost is €15 for entry, plus a free (non-alcoholic) drink.  Get more details here.  

If anyone else knows of more Halloween activities for kids in Paris, please share them in comments below!

Oh, and if you need to get costumes and Halloween-themed candy for your own party, take a look at last year's post on this topic! (It'll be Thing to Do # 6)....